Commento Lonely Planet (Lonely Planet)
Vittoria is a vibrant presence and knows almost every inch of this wonderful coastline - its paths, its hill-perched villages, its secret corners. She sells organic olive oil, vinegar, preserves, nuts and lemons on her terraced five hectares. The cocks crow at dawn, distant dogs bark in the early hours and fireflies glimmer at night in the lemon groves. It's rural, the sort of place where you want to get up while there’s still dew on the vegetables. The names of the bedrooms reflect their conversion from old farm buildings - Stalla, Fienile, Balcone, and they are simply but solidly furnished. Excellent dinners are served to guests together; breakfast is taken at your own table under the pergola, and may include raspberries, apple tart and fresh fruit juices. You must descend to coast level to buy your postcards, but this is a great spot from which to explore, and to walk - the CAI Alta via di Lattari footpath is nearby. No pool, but Vittoria has arranged a special price with a private swimming club five kilometres away. Le Tore is heaven to return to after a day's sightseeing, with views of the sea. (Alastair Sawday's)